Intentional Fit vs Desired Fit

I wanted to unpack a few more thoughts on a topic I shared recently over on my Instagram; the difference between how a designer intends a garment to fit, and how we want the garment to fit on us. Because they’re not one and the same. There’s three main touch points I wanted to expand on, and while I don’t find them to be equally linear or even congruent with each other, hopefully this will give you some insight into my thinking.

Wearing Sezane t-shirt; H&M trousers; Witchery belt; Everlane blazer; Fendi bag; Country Road necklace

The reason I bring this up, is centred around this wool blazer from Everlane. I also own this in the grey wool herringbone – which I love – and ordered in the size US2. I think this as I was concerned that the US4 might me too oversized and too boxy. I didn’t really think about how the jacket was supposed to fit on me, instead how I thought that style should fit on me. The classic black had been on my wishlist for a loooong time, so when the opportunity came up to add it to my closet, I opted to go with my regular size; a US4. And the second I put it on, I was surprised by just how much more I preferred the fit. That it didn’t feel too big. That it didn’t overwhelm my frame – which for reference, I’m 172cm tall.

It seems obvious, right? While this thought has been ticking around in the back of my mind for a long time, I’d never really quite verbalised it. Or taken actual action to use this as a strategy when adding items to my wardrobe. Instead I just focused more on the “aesthetic” element and how an item looked on me. I suppose what most of us do when we’re shopping. And what it’s made me think about more is if a designer intends for an item to look a certain way, should we perhaps seek out an alternative which matches up with our desires?

The reason I ask this question is because garments are cut specifically to hang off the body in a considered way. The width across the chest, the shoulder seams, the length of the cuff. Some brands (thinking Tibi here as a great example), have a very cool, slouchy component to all their styles which is very intentional for the CMC style type (IYKYK). When you size up or size down, the proportions aren’t necessarily going to be quite right. The fit may be mostly what you’re after, but not exactly “on the money” so to speak.

At the other end of the spectrum is items which genuinely are cut large (or small even!). Think generous waist measurements, or a fitted top/dress which hangs loose. In these instances, shifting up/down a size will give you the intended fit, but knowing the difference between the two can be difficult to perceive.

And of course the all important question is; how do you want to look in the garment?

Tricky, non?

So back to the blazer. The size US4 which I’d thought for years would be too big actually turned out to be just right. Already I’ve seen how it’s transformed my outfits in a way that wasn’t possible before. I’ve long desired to have that very chill and effortless feel to my tailoring, but lacked the “tools” to do so. And for anyone curious, it’s a very good option if you’re after a well made, Italian wool relaxed blazer. It’s a medium-weight, works well worn with a tee as an extra layer, and I love that the weave of the fabric is subtle yet visible. Lined too and packs up reasonably well in your suitcase (not left for too long, though) – trust me, I’ve tested it!